‘Every Culinary Artist Must Train Here’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Secures Fourth on Ranking of London’s Top Food Spots.

Whenever compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning names. However, nestled prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest place earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary honour.